Collagen-enriched powders, drinks and gummies offer a number of impressive and tempting benefits, from stronger bones and healthier joints to firmer skin and 'anti-aging'. It's true that collagen is a crucial protein for many aspects of our physical health and well-being, but can you eat or drink it to return to revitalized skin?
Collagen, found in our skin, hair, nails, tendons, cartilage and bones, is an important structural protein in our tissues. And although we are constantly producing new collagen, that production rate starts to slow down in our twenties. In addition, the collagen already in our skin will be damaged by exposure to sunlight, smoking, alcohol consumption and sugary diets. The result is that aging skin with less collagen looks thinner, sagging and has more fine lines. It is therefore logical that people are looking for products that can restore the richness of collagen in the skin. Nowadays, there is a plethora of collagen supplements and healthy foods in a market that is supposedly more than worth it $4 billion. But while there is some evidence that there may be some benefit to regular use of high-quality supplements, not all dermatologists recommend going this route.
Collagen is a very large molecule, and when taken orally through a supplement, that molecule is broken down into the amino acids that make it up. So how does this translate to new collagen in the skin? The theory behind collagen supplementation is that when you ingest and digest it, those short broken down components of collagen will circulate in our blood and signal to our immune system that there has been damage, and we need more collagen production to repair it, says Joshua Zeichner , associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital. “But actually the jury is out,” he says. “The true effectiveness of collagen supplements has yet to be proven.”
There isn't much academic literature on the effects of collagen supplements on skin quality. But authors of two separate systematic reviews, one from 2021 And one from 2019Research showed that collagen supplements affect skin elasticity and hydration. But these effects go away after you stop taking the supplement.
Will it work for you? It's hard to say because so many factors can affect your skin. One greasy meal can cause a breakout, a change in the weather can leave you dry and blotchy, and a night of poor sleep can leave your skin looking dull. It is very difficult to find out whether improvements in your skin are due to a collagen drink or to other lifestyle or environmental factors. Not to mention that many collagen supplements and health foods also contain other vitamins and antioxidants that may also provide a benefit, says Zeichner.
Another tricky factor is that supplements are so poorly regulated in the U.S. that it can be challenging to distinguish which products may be effective and which are unlikely to do anything, says Neelam Vashi, associate professor of dermatology at Boston University School. of Medicine and Boston Medical Center. Vashi is skeptical of collagen supplements and its purported benefits. But she says that for the best chance of a collagen supplement having any effect, you should look for hydrolyzed collagen, a form that has already been broken down and is therefore easier for your body to absorb. “Otherwise it just goes through your system,” she says. You should also look for collagen types 1 and 3, the types most abundant in the skin.
If you're really concerned about your collagen, the most important steps are to regularly use sunscreen and skin care products like glycolic acid, retinol, and retinol alternatives like bakuchiol, says Zeichner.
If you like to try collagen supplements, that's fine. There's no evidence that collagen supplements (taken properly, according to directions) are harmful to health, especially if you have a healthy liver and kidneys, says Zeichner. “There are few downsides to taking these supplements other than the damage to your wallet.”
